Friday 16 December 2011

Exploring Victoria Falls




As I begin to write this chapter, the rainy season has started in Zambia. We sit here in the airport waiting to exit Zambia. Our trip has been perfectly timed. We had a clear day to enjoy a thorough exploration of Victoria Falls and we stayed dry. After we had finished our outdoor activities, a spectacular tropical thunderstorm began in the late afternoon with intense fireworks and a very wet rainstorm.  In the weeks ahead, the Zambezi River will rise making it difficult to see the falls as we saw them yesterday because as the river rises the mist thickens and viewing the falls themselves becomes impossible. Not only is the mist a problem for seeing the falls, visits to Livingstone Island are impossible because the flood waters cover most of that venue. We were lucky to get out to the Island where Dr. Livingstone first viewed the falls in 1855.

The Zambezi River is the fourth largest river system in Africa behind the Nile, the Congo and the Niger river systems. It flows through 6 countries including Angola, Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Mozambique. The source is in Zambia and it drains into the Indian Ocean from Mozambique. The most famous portion of the river, Victoria Falls, is situated between the towns of Livingstone, Zambia and Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe.  It is one of the seven natural wonders of the world. On Wednesday, Mrs. Gym and I explored the falls on foot from the Zambian side, flew over the falls in a helicopter and took a boat out to Livingstone Island, which is situated overlooking the gorge between the Horseshoe Section and the Main Section of the falls. It was a very busy day indeed.

We woke up early and decided to hike to the Eastern Cataracts, which are the closest section of the falls to the Royal Livingstone Hotel, where we were staying. After a few hundred meters, we left hotel property and came to a gate leading to a park, that Zambia had built on the cliffs on their side of falls. There was a good pathway built along the gorge that had numerous viewpoints for some excellent pictures of the first two or three sections of the falls.

the first view of the falls on our morning hike

the Eastern Cateract

looking downstream from the falls to the bridge between Zambia and Zimbabwe

Dr. Gymingstone, I presume

looking down from the Zambian side

looking across the falls toward the Zimbabwe side




We then returned to the hotel for breakfast and dined at our leisure because we still had ample time before our guides, Mel and Joseph were to meet us in the lobby and take us to the Heliport. At 10:30 they arrived and Joseph drove us to helipad where a South African pilot was waiting with his chopper to take us on this excellent photo opportunity. Mrs. Gym was nervous but just like you would expect she boarded the aircraft without whining and off we went. We made two and a half loops over the falls and the pilot gave us running commentary whilst keeping an eye on other helicopters, which were also in the area. He then ran upriver over a group of hippos and looped in over the National Park on the Zambian side of the river looking for other game before heading back to the Baobab tree that marked his home base. I kept an eye on the wife throughout the ride and had noted the placement of the barf-bag in front of us when I entered the machine but we never needed it. Mrs. Gym remarked later that it was a pretty smooth ride. She also got some excellent photos.

our chopper ride

Heli-base is under the Baobab tree

a good shot of the 1.7 km. width of the falls

the Eastern Cataracts from the air

draining through the gorge

Livingstone Island from the air

Zimbabwe golf course designed by Gary Player (no one is playing)




The third probe of Victoria Falls was an amphibious landing, which we executed on Livingstone Island. This landmass of the island at this time of year is all of about 1.5 acres of high basalt bedrock. During the annual rainy season, the area shrinks down to almost nothing and trips to the island are suspended. Mel introduced us to our host Alex at our hotel dock and we jumped into his motorboat for the cruise downstream. I was somewhat anxious about the wisdom of driving downstream to the edge of one of the highest and most powerful waterfalls in the world, but a short time later we landed on the island and Alex proceeded to give us a tour of “his office”. Alex took us right to the edge of the sheer basalt cliffs on both sides of the island and this provided us with more great photo opportunities. After that we stood by the memorial to Dr. Livingstone, where he first viewed the falls in 1855. Alex and his team then sat us down in a tent overlooking the falls and provided us with a three-course lunch. We left the island after checking out the “Loo with a View” and boated back to the hotel dock.



looking back to where we had hiked to in the morning

the intrepid explorers

Alex our guide at the memorial to Livingstone where he first viewed the falls

looking towards Zimbabwe out over the "Main Falls"

Loo with a View

inside the Loo


View from the Loo with a View


I am finishing this submission as I sit in Terminal 3, at Heathrow Airport in London, having enjoyed another great flight on South African Airlines. Sadly, we have left the African continent. We said goodbye to our friend Alex (a different Alex than the Livingstone guide), our final Micato contact in Johannesburg, who did an excellent job guiding through that massive new airport and wishing us a warm farewell. We also said goodbye to Dick and Gail Browne, our travel companions over the past couple of weeks. Dick and Gail would be spending two more nights in South Africa and although they wanted us to stay and enjoy the rest of their adventure with them, we had to get home to get ready for Christmas.  I will try to write one final chapter in the next couple of days to wrap up this particular adventure. We have an Air Canada flight that is calling us.

Wednesday 14 December 2011

Livingstone

our pool on the banks of the Zambesi

Livingstone, Zambia

We landed in Zambia yesterday and we have been busy ever since we got here. We were picked up at the airport by two Micato representatives; Joseph, a black Zambian and Mel, a white Zimbabwean.  Since Victoria Falls is shared by Zambia and Zimbabwe, both countries have tourist infrastructure near the falls. Both the towns of Livingstone, Zambia and Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe have multiple hotels. It was nice for us to have a Micato person from both countries because they are both quite different. Joseph’s Zambia is a fully democratic country that just had voted in a new government, which includes a white Vice-President. Zimbabwe is a real mess of a totalitarian country, which has a very recent history of multiple conflicts and a shattered economy. Only 10 years ago, Mugabe, the President of Zimbabwe, confiscated the farms of all the white farmers in the country, without compensation to the former owners. He then dished them back out to his political cronies.

Joseph drove us through the town of Livingstone and deposited us at the Royal Livingstone Hotel. We checked in and had a little bit of time to freshen up before Joseph and Mel met us again to take us down the road for a planned cruise down the Zambezi, aboard a two-deck river boat. As we boarded an African duo played African instruments similar to xylophones but made out of African hard wood loosely strapped to a frame over top of graduated sizes of animal horns. Together these guys made a pretty cool sound together. We were served finger food and drinks and Mel accompanied us on the boat and was happy to discuss politics and whatever else we were interested in talking about, between sightings of crocodiles and hippos. We got back to the hotel and would eat dinner in the dining room that evening. We needed to get some decent rest that night because the next day would be a very busy day. The next day’s activities included a hike to the Eastern Cateracts, a helicopter ride over the falls, and a boat ride to the Island right on top of the falls where Livingstone first viewed them in 1855. 

Mrs. Gym was dreading the helicopter ride.

Here are some pictures from our first half-day here:

The Royal Livingstone Hotel
hotel pool on the banks of the Zambezi

Victoria Falls' mist downriver from the hotel
this is how you keep crocs and hippos out of the lobby
crocodile from the river boat
marimba players
Merry Christmas from Zambia
Stay tuned for more from Zambia.


Singita: Part Two

Selected Singita Stories



Chapter One: The Most Fascinating of Creatures

I love the Dung Beetle! Think about it, this rather large insect flies around until he finds a nice pile of fresh dung. Then he lands in it and using his specially adapted front legs he separates out a big lump of the dung to form into a ball. When he is done kneading and sculpting the dung, he has formed a perfectly round ball of the stuff many times his own size. He then rolls it around the countryside until he is able to attract a female beetle that approves of the size and shape of his dung ball and agrees to lay her eggs in it.

Think about this. If your ball of shit is too small you are not going to score. But if you have a very large, perfectly shaped ball of shit you will probably succeed. Does this sound familiar?

The pictures speak for themselves. The lesson is simple, you have to have your shit together.






Chapter Two: Hippo Hike

We did something a little different at Singita. On our second game drive into the concession, Ian asked us if we were interested in participating in a little foot-patrol. We both nodded agreement to the concept but I immediately began to doubt that snap decision. I wondered about leaving the relative safety of the Land Rover and marching off into the wilderness. I then remembered that Ian’s .455 caliber Holland & Holland and its five inch bullets would also be accompanying us. I asked Ian whether his elephant gun stopped everything in the concession and he assured me that if the shot was placed correctly then no animal could withstand the armament. I then proceeded in another line of questioning about Ian’s relative marksmanship skills and came away from those queries with only partially satisfactory answers.

Some time later, we stopped at the trailhead of Ian’s planned hike and we all jumped out of the truck, except Daniel who indicated he would guard the Land Rover. This struck me as odd, until I remembered that I had seen a troop of baboons earlier and the vehicle had some refreshments in the back.  So off we went down the game trail, which descended from a flatter area around where our ride was parked and down into a lower river-course that was parallel to the dirt road. We hiked for about 300 yards to a narrow opening in the bedrock that lead down to the bottom. As soon as we came to the roost that Ian wanted us to observe the inhabitants of the river from, a tremendous racket ensued as the locals noticed our arrival. We gazed down on what Ian estimated was a population of 150-200 hippos, of all ages, and they were all a little excited about our arrival. Ian assured us that they would soon get used to us and sure enough the din started to die down a bit after a couple of minutes. Then Ian calmly told us that more people die of hippo attacks in Africa every year than attacks from any other animal. My already racing heart rate shot up a few more bpm as I looked down on the assembled masses in the water below who were all facing us.

Obviously, we survived and it was a really cool experience but I felt very much better after I had retaken my seat in the Land Rover and we continued on down the road.    

Ian in the lead with the elephant gun, the dear wife, Dick Browne and Gail Browne starting off on the hike

Surprised Hippos

checking us out

not too happy

showing aggression

check out those chompers




Chapter Three: Lions of Singita

At Singita there was a very large pride of female lions with older cubs. The whole group included about 6-8 adult females and 10-12 cubs that were older than the cubs we had seen at Londolozi. In total the pride numbered 18 without the male lions who were around but spent most of their time off on their own. We visited this group of lions at both of the morning drives and the one evening drive that we went on while at the concession.

On the first drive, Daniel had wanted to do some scouting on foot because he had seen some tracks, so off he went into the bush with a radio and the elephant gun. Not too long after that, Daniel radioed back to Ian to make his report but I do not think any of us understood what was being talked about on the radio because Ian and Daniel were communicating in Daniel’s African dialect. Daniel had indeed found some lions though. Chatting with Daniel later on, he told me how he had come upon the lions and how he had then stuck near a big tree so that he had somewhere to seek refuge if the lions attacked.  

The lions were resting in the shade of two trees and a bush and there was not much movement exhibited by them during this first visit. It was easy to see though that these big cats had not eaten in a while. Many of the adults were pretty skinny.

The second visit was at night and we got there about a half hour before sunset.  This was good timing because the pride was beginning to stir. We had arrived just before they began hunting. They lionesses took no notice of us as they rose from their shady day-beds and started to stretch. As the lionesses began to go through their pre-game motions the cubs watched but stayed put.  In fact, the cubs always stayed in the rear throughout the hunt and watched their elders. There was a beautiful sunset that night and the lionesses began to fan out and move in a westerly direction. This obviously makes sense because the predators would be approaching the prey from the dark. We followed along and watched how intensely the hunters watched the prey from their positions on either side of the Land Rover. At several points we had lionesses crouching facing the west on both sides of our vehicle. It was amazing to be there amongst them and not them not give us any consideration whatsoever.

Eventually, it was pitch dark and another Land Rover had come up to join us. They were on the right and we were on the left. We stayed with the other vehicle for a half hour and then decided to leave because we had about a 20 km. drive back to the lodge and we did not know if the lions would even be successful that night. The other group stayed with the hunting party.

After we got back and were getting ready to go to dinner Ian told us that the other group had radioed back that only a short time after we left the hunt, the pride had killed a small wildebeest. The other group did not see the kill but they did witness the feeding. Subsequently, members of the group told me that they had witnessed the scrap over the kill by the senior members of the pride  and that after that vicious fight, when the food was gone, all the lions were grooming each other and were friendly again. Unfortunately, only four of the lionesses ate anything at all and because the prey animal was small, none of them got much to eat. It was sad that we had not stayed a little longer at the hunt.

On the last game drive we said goodbye to the pride from a distance as they had left the Singita concession sometime during the night and were about 300 yards over the boundary and in the National Park where Ian could not drive, We noticed that at least one of the male lions had joined the group of 18.  We had to leave Singita that morning and fly back to Johannesburg so went spent only a few minutes watching them with binoculars and trying to get some pictures of the pride. The Boss got a pretty darn good shot of one of the males that had not participated in the hunt.

First contact:

hanging loose in the shade

my tummy is rumbling

skinny cub


skinny mom too

 Second Contact:

after sleeping most of the day the pride gets active
let's go hunting

sunset and it is a better time to hunt

Third Contact:

A male has joined the pride but we can't go close because they are over the boundary



Final Chapter in Singita:

Ian drove us to the Singita air-strip and we shook his hand and said goodbye to our guide and Singita resort. 

We were on our way to Johannesburg to stay one night there and then we would board a British Airways 737 and fly to Livingstone, Zambia. Our next mission was to view one of the seven natural wonders of the world, Victoria Falls.  











Monday 12 December 2011

Singita Lebombo




Micato, our tour company, booked us into Singita Lebombo as the second and last safari resort that we are visiting on this trip and we would stay here for two nights. We could have used some more time here because they have a great pool deck, wine cellar and spa area and we were not really able to use them on this trip. We will have to come back!

When I told you that Londolozi was the best accommodation that I had ever stayed in, I now have changed my mind. The accommodations at Singita are equally as nice as those at Londolozi and because of the more spectacular mountain scenery in these Lebombo Mountains, the views from the lodge and the bungalows that we stayed in might put it up just a notch above Londolozi.

The main lodge here and the bungalows are really top notch. They are perched high up on a ridge that looks towards Mozambique, and below the buildings is a beatiful green river valley that is full of wildlife. This morning we viewed a perfect African sunrise from our bungalow as the sun rose over the eastern ridge of the river valley.

The view from our bungalow in the late afternoon

The eastern sky at 5 AM before the last game drive


We could not fly into Singita because our bush plane was grounded due to the intense cloud cover over Londolozi, so we transferred to this resort by road across Kruger National Park. That was cool though,  because we spotted many animals as we drove in from the west, to the easternmost side of the park.  We arrived a bit late because we drove, and therefore we missed the evening game drive on the first afternoon. Luckily though, we had arrived on on a special night at Singita! We were treated to a traditional Braai, which is Afrikaans for BBQ.  The event was set up in an open air enclosure behind the main complex, on the top of the ridge. There was lots of meat on the grill, including some Kudu which I chose to dine upon. It was excellent, tasting like top grade Alberta beef, except better. Later we were treated to some traditional singing and dancing by staff members, who were for the most part descendants of the Zulus. I'm sorry I did not get any pictures of this because the staff members, many of whom we came to know, pored their hearts into this spectacle, dressed in traditional Zulu clothing over their staff uniforms. We retired early to our bungalow because the morning game drives start at 5:30 AM just as they did at Londolozi.

All the guests stay in the coolest little bungalows. They are glass rectangular boxes perched on the cliffs and have a Malibou beach house feel, except they all sport African hardwood floors and accents. They have floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the river that also wrap around the sides and back of the house and thus when in the bathroom you feel a bit exposed except there is a wooden screen outside that gives you some protection from prying eyes. The fixtures and furniture are ultra modern and the door has a magnetic lock which was something I had never seen before.

Following are some pictures, first of our bungalow and ten of the main complex:

Our bedroom

front entrance

living area

bath with glass walled shower overlooking the valley

outdoor sleeping option - we did not try this out because I for one did not want to wake up with a baboon beside me

The main building was really cool too:

The Long Bar in the lodge

Pool deck

Dining Room

looking over the pool to the dining area

looking over the pool from the dining area into the valley

We met our guide on the first night and ate dinner with him at the Braai. Ian is a white guide that knew the answer to every question we threw at him and believe me we asked plenty of questions over the three game drives that he guided for us, the Dr. and Dr. Browne and a young couple from Sarasota, Florida who joined us in the Land Rover. Our tracker was Daniel from a village not too far from Londolozi and he of course sat in what Ian referred to as the 'bait seat'.

Our guide Ian and Daniel the tracker in the bait chair

Daniel and Ian changing a tire as we wait in 40 degree heat under a tree. We had just left a leopard when the tire went flat

Let me show you some of the new species that we got decent photos of, in the Singita concession:

My favourite, the Dung Beetle

White-backed vulture

Leopard Tortoise


Maribou Stork 

Guinea Fowl

Francolin

Cape Eagle Owl at Night


Jackal



Here are new baby picks from Singita:

White Rhino

Elephant

ever-present impalas

Here are some interesting photos of animals that we have already shown you but are unique situations that we were able to record:

hippo out-of-water

Waterbuck missing one horn

Warthog and his friends

Dung beetle straining to roll his shitball out of a rut

dog-pile of lions

vultures at coffee-break

And the award winner:

leopard in a tree

More on this result in the next entry.  Stay tuned!











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