Sunday 16 October 2022

Summer 2022: The Danube Caper - Beyond the Danube Canal



Leopoldstadt is the most populace of all of Vienna's districts. It is located just north of the old town on an island in the Danube River. The widest part of the river is north of Leopoldstadt and the narrowest part of the river runs between Leopoldstadt and the old town. This narrower arm is referred to as the Danube Canal because the flow is regulated at the upstream end of the island by the Nussdorf Weir and Locks. The locks have been protecting Vienna from flooding and allowing safe boat access since 1899. The walls of the canal have to be seen to be believed. The canal is actually Vienna's largest free graffiti zone and the graffiti artists have gone to town there with some wild pastels. It is a thing to go to one of the numerous cafes and bars perched above the canal walls, to view these psychedelic displays. You don't need to hallucinate, it's all there, right in front of you.  

From the Ringstrasse, you can hike into Leopoldstadt by crossing the canal on the Aspernbrucke bridge.  Gym had several reasons for wanting to explore this district.  The main reason for going though, was that he and his dear wife wanted to get out on the Danube one more time. And, it just so happened that they had a boat tour ticket. It was included in the Vienna Pass they purchased. So, they strapped on their Sketchers and hiked over the bridge and all the way across Leopoldstadt, to find the boat terminal and the tour boat. 

Once aboard, they rushed up to the top deck to get seats with the best view. The boat was soon underway. This is where time slowed down for Gym. It was still and hot that day. Gym had taken off his favourite short-sleeved pullover and placed it on the bench. He then got up to take a picture of northern Vienna and as he turned around to sit again, the wind created by the passage of the boat, blew the pullover aft. As if out of a dream, Gym watched as his go-to windbreaker slipped through the railing and flew into the Danube. He and Mrs. Gym watched as it made its way downriver towards Budapest, on a cruise that wouldn't be canceled.

They didn't turn the boat around for Gym's jacket and the tour continued. The boat slid upriver towards the tip of the island and then aided by the current, abruptly made a sharp left-hand turn. The captain then steered toward the weir protecting the the Nussdorf Locks and the boat came to a rest at the lock gate. The boat needed to be lowered to the level of the water in the canal. Once the water had drained the lock gate opened and the boat was on its way again. It proceeded down the canal with the old town on the right and Leopoldstadt on the left. This is the best way to view the kaleidoscope of truly mind-blowing canal graffiti. It is interesting to note that many of the modern high-rises along the canal have been designed and decorated to fit with the graffiti. The boat ride ended near the Aspenbrucke bridge and our travellers disembarked with no further losses.

After the boat ride, the dynamic duo returned to Leopoldstadt to check out a land-based attraction, the Wiener Riesinrad. This vintage ride is located in the Prater Amusement Park.  Built in 1897, it is the oldest ferris wheel still in operation. It was featured prominently in the 1987 James Bond classic,  "The Living Daylights". Gym and his sidekick have ridden many ferris wheels around the world but never one quite like the Riesinrad. The Riesinrad held the record for the tallest ferris wheel in the world for 65 years of its life. This ended in 1985 when Japan's Technostar was built. Since then, dozens of cities have trumped the Riesinrad, building new record-breaking ferris wheels every few years. 

Our intrepid travellers concluded their stay in eastern Europe on August 28th with an Austrian Airlines flight to Frankfurt and a direct Air Canada flight from Frankfurt to Calgary. Although they didn't get to have the river cruise they wanted, they thoroughly enjoyed their time along the Danube.

Back on the Danube again


Nearing the Nussdorf Lock

Into the free graffiti zone


Buildings decorated to fit in

Take an aspirin before viewing


The Wiener Riesinrad

View of Prater Park

A sense of how big each passenger car is

View from the top looking over Leopoldstadt


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