Gym's Ramblings: October 2023

Thursday, 12 October 2023

Fall 2023 - A Euro Roadtriip - Montpellier France

Place de La Comedie

September 23-27, 2023

Montpellier is a young city in terms of the average age of its population and also in its length of time as a important urban centre in France. The fact that it contains no less than 6 different universities keeps the population young and since it only began to be mentioned in the historical records in 985 AD, it does not have ancient roots.

Once it was established, Montpellier quickly became an important centre of higher learning and today the streets are filled with bicycles, skateboards and e-scooters as the youthful inhabitants move from cafe to classroom and apartments in the dense medieval part of the old city to the numerous watering holes that line the cobweb of narrow streets there. Those students help to keep L'Ecusson a thriving city centre and a safe part of town for tourists to visit. Much of L'Ecusson is pedestrian-only, so Gym and his dear companion got a few steps in exploring that part of town.

What if you wanted to live in a newer building? Then you live in the Antigone Nieghbourhood, right next to L'Ecusson. This area was developed in the later half of the 20th Century by a very forward-thinking mayor, Georges Freche. It was he who initiated the re-birth of a large area between the river Lez and eastern outskirts of L'Ecusson. One of the most enjoyable walks that Gym and Mrs. Gym took was from Place de l'Europe on the edge of the river, through the centre of the Antigone. You walk down a pedestrian-only thoroughfare, past the neo-classical buildings that are perfectly balanced on either side of boulevards, plazas, parks and fountains that lead you to the Polygon Mall, a large indoor mall with numerous shops and eateries. You then make your way through the mall and end up exiting into L'Ecusson with Place de le Comedie on your left and Esplanade Charles de Gaulle on your right.

Many other more modern buildings were built along the Lez and across the river in the residential areas to the east. One such building is L’hotel de Ville right next to the Marriott and further north on the river pathway, "the Whiite Tree" is a very stunning condo that might look out of place anywhere but in Montpellier.

After spending three nights in France, Gym would chauffeur his lovely companion back to Barcelona and turn that very comfortable Volvo back in to the nice people at National. After dumping that nice "ride", they stayed one more night in Spain, on the beach west of the Barcelona airport,. They then flew back to Heathrow and connected on to Calgary. Another successful road trip was in the books.

The carrara marble statue of the Three Graces
in Place de la Comedie

You can't see it but a McDonalds is on the ground floor
of this glorious building in Place de la Comedie

Playground that seems to have been designed by
Dr. Suess in Esplanade Charles de Gaulle

Sunday, 8 October 2023

Fall 2023 - A Euro Roadtriip - Collias, France

Pont du Garde, near Collias, France

September 24, 2023

In France, the dynamic duo were staying in Montpellier, at the Courtyard Marriott, right next to the l'hotel de ville (city hall). The building was on the banks of the River Lez that flows through the city to the Mediterranean. On both sides of the river there are beautiful tree-lined pathways and that was one of the reasons that Gym chose that hotel. Gym and his dear companion used these riverside trails extensively during their three days in France.

On the morning of the 24th though, the travelers had arranged to drive north to Collias, France. There, Bill, Allison, Zack and Kristen had rented a big house right in the middle of the village and had become 'locals' for several weeks. In fact, they had fallen into the whole French scene. Every morning, Allison and Zack would go to the patisserie and buy a baguette and some pastries. It became important mom-son time but it was also setting the family up for day, with the quintessential element of the french household, the daily bread. Now Gym has never lived this lifestyle but he believes in it. Buy only enough for the day and don't waste anything. The French don't buy in bulk and when they go to buy bread it is fresh that morning.

Gym and his dear sidekick, experienced no trouble at all making their way to Collias from their hotel in Montpellier. Aside from some pretty narrow roads, they made their way through the lush farmland along the beautiful tree-lined country roads. They were to meet up with Zack and Kristan in the parking lot of the village patisserie. Siri unerringly guided them to the rendezous point. From there, Zack guided Gym to a parking spot about two block from their house, where they could park along the side of the street for free. This is where Bill parked his car because the street in front of their house was very narrow. Gym was pleased that he could minimize the chance of upsetting the nice people at National Car Rental by not returning them a Volvo with someone's doorknob embedded in the front quarter-panel.

After a tour of the house, Gym learned that what the home lacked in on-site parking, more than made up for with beautiful gardens, a private outdoor pool and a spacious stone home with a big, fully equipped kitchen, spacious reception areas and 3 large bedrooms. Everyone enjoyed a brunch of quiche, salad, bread and cheese at the large country-kitchen table. Unfortunately, there was only half a bagette available to the diners because Zack had been hungry on his way home from the patisserie that morning. Gym and Mrs. Gym enjoyed this meal very much.

The Bill family had not been idle during their time in Collias, They has thoroughly explored the rural areas surrounding the village and after brunch everyone piled into the two cars and Gym followed Bill to a very, very cool historical site just minutes away. Only 10 minutes from town sits the Roman aqueduct known as Pont du Garde. It dates from 60 AD and it is still standing in all its glory after more than 2000 years. It is the tallest aqueduct the Romans ever built and the lower archest are also among the most massive ever constructed by Roman engineers. For over 500 years this aqueduct carried water 30 miles to Nimes and for its whole life the bridge beside the aqueduct has been in use as an important connection across the Gardon River. The adults surveyed the site as Zack and Kristen swam in the river beneath the impressive structure.

After Pont du Garde, Gym and Mrs. Gym said goodbye to Bill, Allison, Zack and Kristen and wished them continued good fortune on their epic journey around the world. They then returned to Montpellier, to explore that city for a couple of more days.

The Collias Patisserie

The Volvo parked next to Bill's wheels

Zack and Kristen at the gate to theiir home in Collias

Inside the walled garden

The large living room

The pool

Kristan, Allison, Bill and Zack

Mrs. Gym taking in the view of Collias from the
bedroom balcony

Kristen in front of Loxalis Restaurant in Collias

Trees line most roads and pathways

Pathway up to the bridge alongside Pont du Garde

Dedication to the the Roman Architects

Looking up at the upper arches from the bridge
alongside the Pont

View from the Pont du Garde bridge

Friday, 6 October 2023

Fall 2023 - A Euro Roadtrip - Barcelona to Montpellier

September 23, 2023

Following the completion of the convention in Barcelona, Gym and his lovely sidekick woke up in their cozy room at Hotel Arts, in Villa Olympica, Barcelona. It would have been nice to have spent a week there but our hero had places to go and things to see. They were headed to France! But first they had to get over to the airport to pick up some new wheels from the National Rental lot. This time Gym was not going for the Vauxhall Corsa, he needed some room to be able to stretch out a bit. After discussing matters with his boss, an agreement was reached to get something more roomy. Later when the nice people at National showed our hero a late model Volvo XC90, Gym fell for it. Go National, go like a pro! (Gym just loves that Patrick Warburton the National's celebrity spokesman).

Before leaving Barcelona, Gym secured an invite to visit brother Bill and his family in the south of France. The travelers would drive east, check out the lush countryside along the Med and set up a base camp in Montpellier. From there they would drive up to Collias and visit the temporary Moore foothold in that part of France. They would also take the time to explore Montpellier.

Montpellier is not quite the French Riviera but it sits in a very enviable position on the Mediterranean coast. It doesn't have the colourful and ancient history of Marseille, Nimes or Barcelona but it has a beautiful medieval city centre called L'Ecusson which is juxtaposed with some very impressive modern architecture in the adjacent Antigone neighborhood. Montpellier is about a four hour drive from Barcelona on an excellent divided motorway. In Spain, its the AP-7 but at the border of France, it changes to the A9 and becomes a toll road. It will cost 20 euros to travel from the Spanish border to Montpellier. However, the A9 might be worth the tolls, it was Gym's favourite highway on this trip, fast and smooth.

Prior to entering France though, Gym wanted to check out a spot along the Costa Brava in eastern Spain. The Gardens at Cap Roig are about an hour out of Barcelona. It is there that a wealthy English lady, Dorothy Webster and her exiled Russian aristocratic husband bought an estate perched on cliffs overlooking the sea iin 1927. This power couple then lovingly built their dream castle with a landscaped area of about 17 hectares, around it. It took them 30 years to finish it. You can't go in the castle but there is more than enough to see roaming about the terraced gardens, even in September. The views of the Med are spectacular. It is well worth spending some time here.

More on Collias and Montpellier in subsequent posts.

The tall building in the back is the Hotel Arts. The sculpture a stylized whale sits between the hotel and the beach. On the left are a number of shops and dining venues.

The Volvo

The castle at Jardin Cap Roig.

Meticulously trimmed hedges

Beautiful views of the Costa Brava

Lots of colour, even at the end of September

1000 different plant species grow at Cap Roig

A nice desert section on the edge of the cliffs

Here, you can see the blue-green waters of the Med.

A popular snorkelling area

Cap Roig also has numerous pieces of artwork
Scattered throughout.

Sunday, 1 October 2023

Fall 2023 - Barcelona Brothers Conference

2023 Barcelona Brothers Conference - September 20-23, 2023

Gym interrupts the roadtrip to post an article on a conference he attended.

Barcelona Brothers Conference Delegates:
Left to Right - Dan, Mrs. Gym, Kristen, Allison, Zack, Bill, Mr. Gym and Gina

Gym and his lovely sidekick flew from London, to Barcelona International Airport, landing at about 9 AM on September 20, 2023. Two of Gym's younger brothers would also arrive in the Catalonian capital that afternoon. Dan, just over a year younger than Gym, would arrive with his wife Gina, on a direct flight from Calgary. Then Bill, the third oldest brother, his wife Allison, son Zack and daughter Kristen, would arrive by car from Collias, France.

Bill and his family were on an epic journey, with many months yet to go. He and Allison had taken their two twin 9-year olds out of school, to travel around the world. Mr. Bill's family had already visited seven countries before reaching Barcelona. These three days together allowed Gym, Mrs. Gym, Dan and Gina, to be part of Bill and his family’s once-in-a-lifetime odyssey.

Each brother was booked into different hotels in Barcelona but plans had been made to go on a couple of tours together and meet for dinner on three consecutive nights. Barcelona offered a great venue for this conference of brothers. There is lots to do in this great city and many great dining establishments to sample from. The conference program included tours in the mornings of the full days and when they concluded, everyone had free time to do their own thing until dinner. During the free time, the younger delegates elected to take their parents to the beach and others explored the Gothic Quarter and/or took brief siestas. Each evening everyone convened at a different restaurant to get together and enjoy some of the delicious Catalan fare. Dinners were always late, starting between 7:30 and 8:00PM but late for North Americans is early for Spaniards, who generally prefer reservations between 9:00 and 10:00.

2023 BAND OF BROTHER'S - CONFERENCE PROGRAM

Day One (September 20, 2023):

5:00 -7:00 PM - Meet and Greet - In front of the Barcelona Cathedral

7:30- 9: 30 PM - Opening Dinner - 4 Gats Restaurant in the Gothic Quarter

Day Two (September 21, 2023):

10:00- 11:30 AM - Tour of Parc Gruell

11:30 -2:00 PM - Tour of Sagrada Familia

Free time in the afternoon

8:00 -10:00 PM - Dinner at Bar Canete in Gothic Quarter

Day Three (September 22, 2023):

10:00 -1:00PM - Concurrent Tours: Choose either Mont Serrat or The Dragon's Tour

Free Time

8:00-10:00 - Closing Session and Dinner at Pez Vela on the beach

Day One:

At about 1600 hrs on September 20, 2023, all three siblings and their family members came together near the old Barcelona Cathedral for the convention meet and greet. Everyone sat down for drinks at Taverna del Bisbe, on Avenue de la Catedral. Gym was amazed that the delegates could all travel so far, coming from different directions and meet like that in a huge foreign city. Thank god for GPS! Gym and his lovely sidekick greeted Dan and Gina first and then Bill, Allison, Zachary and Kristen joined up. Everyone toasted their good fortune and Gym thought how much his dearly departed mother would have loved to have been there to smile and raise a glass.

The gothic front entrance of the
massive Barcelona Catedral,

There was no conference program on the first day and following the Meet and Greet everyone re-convened for dinner, at a very cool restaurant not far away in the Gothic Quarter. 4 Gats is an old establishment that once was the main hangout of Pablo Picasso. It is said that Antoni Gaudi also occasionally dropped in for some fellowship with the artsy crowd that hung out there, over a hundred years ago. The interior of the place is quite elaborate, with artwork festooning the walls and a grande piano gracing the centre of the main dining room. The ambiance today is bright and bohemian, like the artists that once spent time there.

The delegates enjoyed food that was a good good mix of Catalan and Iberian cuisine and was very tasty but the service was very spotty. Everyone had fun though and looked forward to the next day’s program.

Cafe Els Quatre Gats restaurant, Barcelona

The picture above is of the interior of 4 Gats from the balcony above the main dining room. One can not ignore the modernist artwork decorating the walls. The convention delegation sat at the large table to the left of the piano and behind the massive floral display

DAY TWO:

The program started with a frenzied dash up through La Salut neighbourhood to the entrance of Park Gruell. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is located on Carmel Hill which is north of central Barcelona. Eusebi Gruell, a wealthy landowner, hired Antoni Gaudi to design an upscale community on this highland, with a view of the city and the Mediterranean Sea beyond. The concept was to build a modern, suburban residential development of sixty pie-shaped lots. Gaudi designed and built the community infrastructure which includes elaborate elevated roads, free-flowing pathways and curving stairways. He also designed the entrance buildings and a stunning central plaza sitting above a covered market square. Construction began in 1900 and ended abruptly in 1914, when the founders realized they had failed to sell any lots. Only two houses were finished and Gaudi lived in one of them until his death in 1926. After Gaudi's death, the entire property was opened as a public park. It is a fascinating place to visit and see where Gaudi developed some of the themes he refined in Sagrada Familia.

The conference delegates toured the park with an excellent guide named Jordi, who was provided by Viator Tours. Jordi was very knowledgeable about the intricacies of Gaudi's work and was especially good with the two 9-year old delegates.

Of course, the other thing you must see when you visit the Catalan capital, is Gaudi's most famous project, the Sagrada Familia. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is the most visited place in Spain. Only a limited number of people can enter the site each day but the Viator deal ensured entry on a fast pass. Again Jordi expertly guided the group through this extraordinary building. Zack was especially engaged and went back in after the tour was overto see the location of Gaudi's tomb which was down in the crypt. For Gym and Mrs. Gym, this was their second visit to Sagrada Familia. They had first visited the site seven years ago in 2016 (posting entitled Barcelona 2.5). It was just as moving the second time as it was the first time.

Bill and Allison with
daughter Kristen and son Zack at
Park Gruell

Kristen below an elevated roadway with support structure
designed to resemble a living forest.

Gaudi’s plaza benches lining a large gathering
place with great views of Barcelona

Kristen on the beautiful plaza.

The jaw-dropping Sagrada Familia

The amazing light coming through the
stained glass windows of the Basilica.

That night the delegation dined at Bar Canete. It is located down a narrow alley, just off La Rambla. It is really a very tiny space but despite the lack of size, it is very highly rated. Luckily the delegation had a reservation and again the restaurant was able to sit everyone together. Gym enjoyed this meal which for him included some delicious prawns and some squid ink paella. Gym thought this the best of the three places that were sampled.

On the way to Bar Canete we pass through a
typical street in the Gothic Quarter

DAY THREE:

On the third day Mrs Gym and Gina went to Montserrat and everyone else went on The Dragon's Tour in the old Roman part of the city.

Montserrat is located about a one-hour drive or train ride in the mountains to the north of Barcelona. Mrs. Gym and Gina accessed the site by road. It was a steep, winding road that switchbacked up across the mountain, the kind of road that Mrs. Gym doesn't like too much. However, they made it there safely, just like the numerous pilgrims that visit every year. It is home to three things that draw visitors from all over the world, as follows:

1. The Basilica of Monserrat - This church contains many striking works of art including a statue of the Black Madonna. Apparitions of the Virgin Mary have been reported on the mountain thousands of years ago. Today people can touch the hand of a statue of the Virgin in a special throne room near the alter

2. The Escolania or the Monserrat Boys Choir - Aged 9-14, these boys from all over Catalonia are managed by the Monastery. They go to school here and music is the core element of their education. They normally sing each day in the Basilica.

3. The Montserrat National Park - Many hiking trails crisscross the area and visitors can scale the mountains or stroll through the lush forests of oak.

Mrs. Gym and Gina toured the Basilica and saw the Black Madonna but they were very unlucky because they did not see a live performance of the Boys Choir. They did see a film of the choir though.

The rest of the delegates congregated again near the Barcelonia Cathedral for the Dragon's Tour. This tour was booked with Context travel and it was designed to engage the children and the adults. It started at the remains of the Roman acqueduct that Zack pointed out to Gym on Day One (Zack will probably be doing the tour some day). We had an excellent guide that day named Bernat. The children were impressed that he was an architect. Gym was impressed that he had a Masters degree from a university in Texas. He was perfect with the kids, pointing out all the gargoyles on the walls and teaching then about architectural styles. The adults were engaged as he pointed out the hidden remnants of the old Roman city that were mostly covered up in medieval times.

Dinner and the closing ceremonies were held at Pez Vela in between the iconic W Hotel and the Mediterranean Sea. It is a comfortable open-air restaurant that like Bar Canete is a Fodor's Choice restaurant. In that it was not in the cramped Gothic Quarter of the city, it gave the delegation a different perspective from which to enjoy the local fare. Gym enjoyed the octopus and a portion of a giant pan of vegetable paella. Dinner was followed by hugs all around and wishes of safe travels for all. The conference had definitely lived up to the unspoken theme of Carpe Diem.

As Gym and his trusty traveling companion walked back to their hotel on the boardwalk, they were treated to a great fireworks display out over the sea. Thousands lined the beach to take in the show which began Barcelona's annual fiesta, La Merce.