Spring 2024 - In Search of Cherry Blossoms: Nagasaki

Nagasaki, Japan

March 24, 2024  was a very rainy day in Nagasaki. Under the gloomy skies that morning, Gym and his dear companion left the ship to explore Nagasaki. Maybe this was appropriate for Gym's visit to the first of only two cities in the world, that had been devastated by nuclear attack. Looking out the window on that weekday morning though, it didn't look like the population was at all glum. They were scurrying about finishing their commutes and rushing to meetings without a thought about what happened almost 80 years ago.

Nagasaki is today, and has been for centuries, an important trading centre, heavy equipment manufacturer and shipbuilding location. There are about 400,000 inhabitants of the city today, living and working on the hills rising up out of the harbour. Interestingly, because of its long connection to Europeans, Nagasaki has a relatively large number of Christians in its population.

The Portuguese were the first western power to come to Japan in 1543. They traded to Nagasaki via Goa, India. Everything went well until 1639, during the Edo period, when the Tokugawa Shogunate decided to isolate Japan by shutting it down to foreigners and hoping that would curb the spread of Christianity.  This isolationist policy lasted over 200 years. During this period, Japan still wanted western goods, they could not shut down trade, so they continued to welcome the European ships but did not let the foreigners roam around Japan unchecked. The European boat captains and traders were only allowed on a small island in Nagasaki harbour called Dejima Island. This island which today, is being re-constructed to its 17th century resemblance, was the first stop of bus tour that day. In the pouring rain, Gym et al crossed the bridge to Dejima Island and viewed all the trading post's infrastructure as it appeared in the 17th Century. 

Then it was time to leave the harbour and drive up to the hill to the Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum. The Museum was well laid out and the exhibits were detailed enough to understand what it was like to be there when the plutonium bomb, nicknamed "Fat Man", exploded 500 meters above the ground. It was a very sobering experience for Gym and his dear wife.

After entering the museum from the top, they exited from the bottom and made their way to the Nagasaki Peace Park. At the lowest point in the park a plaque sits beside the monolith that marks the hypocenter of the explosion. It reads, "At 11:02 on August 9, 1945, an atomic bomb exploded 500 meters above this spot". In total, 150,000 people were killed or horribly injured by the blast. The upper part of The Peace Park includes the massive Fountain of Peace and the Peace Sculpture, by an artist from the Nagasaki Prefecture. There are also many fine works of art there, donated by sister cities and many countries from around the world.

That night the Riviera sailed out of Japanese waters. Gym and his lovely sidekick were to visit Busan, South Korea the next day.

Cherry Blossom Report:

0-for-5

pics are coming soon.....

Spring 2024 - In Search of Cherry Blossoms: Kagoshima

Kagoshima, Japan

Sailing all night from Kochi, the MS Riviera reached the port city of Kagoshima just after breakfast on the 22nd of March. Kagoshima is situated on Kyushu, the southernmost of Japan's largest islands. About 600,000 people live here and gain employment from the automobile, semi-conductor and ceramics industries. 

The thing that Gym noticed right away, as he stood on the docks in Kagoshima, was Mt. Sakurajiwa. It sits in the bay, just 3 kilometres across from the city. Mt. Sakurajiwa is this very active stratovolcano. It has several small eruptions every day and once a year or so, there is a major event. On February 14, 2024, it had a major eruption sending a plume 5 kilometres into the sky and blowing rocks into an area up to 1.5 kilometers from the mountain. So it just seems the people of Kagoshima are living just a little too close to the volcano. Even crazier though, there are about 3000 people living on the slopes of the mountain. The children that attend the elementary school on the mountain, are issued helmets to wear to and from school.

Thankfully, Gym and his dear wife had a tour several kilometers away from the volcano that day. They visited the beautiful little village of Chiran. Chiran is just 40 kilometres down the road from Kagoshima. On the way there you drive up through lush cedar-lined hills and then closer to the village productive-looking tea and rice farms. After the scenic drive, the tour bus parked just off main street of Chiran, where the sidewalk is separated from the road by a deep gutter. The gutter is filled with clear running water and enormous colourful Koi. 

Gym et al started the day in Chiran with a stroll through a 250-year old neighbourhood just adjacent to the main thoroughfare. This first highlight of Chiran involved a walking tour of seven very old and very beautiful homes built by seven samurais all those years ago. Many of the properties are still owned by family of the original samurai that built them. What stood out was their gardens. Mrs. G was in heaven. She revelled at the sight of these well manicured gardens, chock full of sculptured pines and banzai trees and neatly trimmed hedges. She felt a kinship with the gardeners who probably also used the Ryobi hedge trimmers. But it was. more than just the shrubbery, each yard was landscaped with greenery and stones to create 3-D landscape masterpieces. After viewing these incredible yards, the family of one of the original samurais served everyone some green tea, in the Japanese style.

The second stop in Chiran was a visit to the Chiran Peace Museum. This part of town was where Kamikaze pilots trained and then took off on their last missions. They were training to inflict as much damage as they could to the U.S. Navy during the Okinawa Campaign. Everything is written in Japanese inside the museum but all you have to do is see the pictures on the walls of the 1036 kamikaze pilots that took off from the Chiran airstrips, to understand what the museum is all about. It moves you when you take it all in. As you leave the area you drive past 1036 stone street lanterns, one for each Chiran pilot that died.

When Gym and his fetching sidekick returned to the Riveria, they were relieved that it wasn't covered in a layer of volcanic ash. They left that evening for Nagasaki.

Cherry Blossom Report

Gym thought for sure that since they had travelled so far south of Tokyo that there may have been a cherry tree in bloom but no, nothing here either. 

Record: 0-4

Pics to follow .... when the internet gets better

Spring 2024 - In Search of Cherry Blossoms: Kochi

Matsurahama Beach in Kochi, Japan

Kochi

After pulling out of Nagoya on March 21, 2024, the MS Riviera sailed south again along Japan's Pacific coast. As it made its way that evening, the ride smoothed out and Mrs. G was very content. She continues to love cruising but as you know does not like a rolling sea. On the morning of the 22nd, the passengers woke up tied to the pier in Kochi, Japan.

Kochi is located on Shikoku Island which is much smaller than the main island of Honshu. It is the capital of the prefecture (province) and has just over 300,000 inhabitants. The main industries here are things like shipbuilding, IT, electronics, seafood and spices. It is a very mountainous area and pedestrians here need strong legs to get from A to B. Because of its position, Kochi is prone to damage from cyclones which are first felt in this picturesque place, before moving on to the rest of Japan.

Our two intrepid travellers joined a group that that began a tour by exploring the very beautiful, Katsurahama Beach, not far from the cruise ship terminal. A very nice paved path led along the top of the beach back-shore. It was a significantly steep beach profile from the path down to the intertidal area. Notwithstanding the slope, there was a nice sandy area at top of the intertidal zone, where Gym was sure local beach bums laid down their beach towels in the summer time. Also along the path, were a couple of important public art works, a playground, food and drink kiosks and a Shinto Shrine or two. One of the significant public art pieces is a statue of Ryoma Sakamoto. Sakamoto born in Kochi into a low level samurai family. He was a Master Swordsman trained in Edo (Tokyo). He was not happy with the Tokugawa shogunate that fostered a feudal state. Unfortunately, that got him killed at age of 31. However, his sacrifice may have helped bring about the end of the shogunate. In any event he is a hero in Kochi.

The tour then made its way over to Kochi Castle and this time you could climb to the top of the keep, for a wonderful view of the city. Gym was not enthusiastic at the beginning so his dear wife abandoned him and charged ahead up the battlements to break a record for her tourist age group. After almost giving up, Gym decided to take it one stair at a time and with only four levels to go, he passed his fetching bride on the way down giving him that final incentive to reach the summit. 

The Kochi Castle was built on a high point in the city between 1600 and 1611. It escaped being torn down during the Meiji Restoration when Japan was undergoing industrialization and miraculously, escaped being damaged in WW2, by American B-29 bombers. It survives as one of only 12 castles in Japan, with its original keep. One notices though that in the lower approaches, the stone stairs are well worn and up on the the high floors of the keep, the wooden stairs are worn slick with the passage of so many shoeless feet over the centuries.  

Mrs. G and her tired husband descended to the parking lot together and took a "short cut" through the neighbourhood on the way back. They negotiated a few back alleys behind the first row of battlements on the hill. There was not one piece of litter in any alleyway and you could eat off any of the parking stalls behind the apartments.

Kochi Cherry Blossom Report

Unfortunately, the score is 0-3 since the start of the cruise but there was one tree in back of the castle that

may have been just starting to bloom. MS Rivera headed south again that night and the intrepid duo hoped for more blossoms as the cruise continued.

Pics updated on April 6, 2024

Katsurahama Beach

Tour crossed the Urado Bridge to get to Matsurahama Beach

Another pick of the beach and the great path that
runs to that rocky point in the distance

A monument to Yoshi Omachi, a poet born 
in Kochi and educated at what is now the
University of Tokyo

On top of the rocky point at the end of the path

Looking out on the Pacific Ocean

Kochi Castle

The massive main gate to Kochi Castle

You begin by climbing numerous sets of stairs to 
get to the inner gate leading to the castle's keep

This is the guardhouse leading to the courtyard of 

the keep. When you reach the main door to the keep

you need to remove the shoes and climb the 

remaining stories in your socks.

On each level their are artifacts and dioramas to 
check out.

Once you finally get to the top you are rewarded with
a fanfic view of Kochi.

another angle from the top

Spring 2024 - In Search of Cherry Blossoms: Nagoya

Transition to the MS Riviera

Early in the morning on March 20th, Gym and his lovely sidekick, checked out of the Ritz and made their way to the cruise ship terminal in Yokohama, about an hour away. There the Oceania Riviera was tied up and waiting for them. They boarded after checking in with the port authorities and the Oceania crew. They were soon settled in to their suite and Mrs. G was very happy to unpack everything and assign drawers to the various items. Over the next 12 days they would visit 8 different cities on three Japanese islands and also sail over to Pusan, Korea for a day.

Nagoya, Japan

The ship got underway at dinner time on the 20th. It sailed out onto the calm waters of Tokyo Bay and then entered the rather choppier Pacific Ocean. The captain set a southerly course that evening, the ship sailed all night and when the passengers woke up in the morning, they were tied up to the pier in Nagoya. 

Just like Tokyo, Nagoya is situated on the east coast of Japan's biggest island, Honshu. It is the fourth largest city in the country with 2.8 million people. Notable as the original HQ of Toyota, it is now also the hub of Japans fine ceramic, aerospace and other high tech industries.

Our hero and dear wife had booked a half day tour in the city which focused on Nagoya Castle and the Atsuta Shrine. Their tour guide Tomo, turned out to be a gem, his English was excellent and he was a great host. The tour was called "The Tokugawa Legacy". Tokugawa became Shogun of Japan in 1603 and that coincides with the beginning of the Edo period. The Edo period was a long, peaceful and progressive period for Japan. James Clavell's novel "Shogun" is based on the rise of the Tokugawa shogunate and the beginning of the Edo period. Gym read Clavell's 1200-page novel when he was supposed to be studying chemistry is university. He finished the book again in the weeks leading up to this trip.

The first stop of the day was Nagoya Castle. It was a project that Tokugawa had his hand in and a strong and beautiful fortress was the result. Our intrepid travellers toured the palace where the lord would entertain various applicants and special guests. It is richly decorated in the Japanese style. Unfortunately, the very large Castle keep was closed due to the unsafe condition of the building which has sustained earthquake damage over the years. 

Later, Tomo led the group into Atsuta Shrine but not before giving everyone a lesson on proper etiquette of offering a prayer at a shinto shrine. Tomo explained that, "one must throw the offering in the shrine collection box, then bow deeply twice, then straighten up and clap twice, then offer your prayer quietly and finally, bow one more time to conclude the ceremony". Gym and Mrs. Gym have since used Tomo's teachings at other shrines.

Cherry Blossom Report

Tokyo - a few buds but we were too early

Nagoya - some more buds but no real blossoms here either

Note from the author:

The internet on the ship is horrendous and it has been difficult to post stories and download pictures. The author will catch up in the days ahead. Be patient and thanks.

Pics to follow....

Spring 2024 - In Search of Cherry Blossoms: Tokyo

On Saint Paddy’s Day the Irish flag is flown
with the Japanese flag above a busy street’s boulevard 

Tokyo, March 16-20, 2024

The Meiji Shrine 

On the first full day in Japan, our hero and his fair companion visited the Meiji Shrine. It was a longish walk from the Ritz but it gave our two travellers a good feel for the neighbourhood. They started their trek in Hinokicho Park, wandered through some narrow streets adjacent to Aoyama Cemetery and eventually found themselves in the 170-acre woodland surrounding the shrine. This mature forest in the Shibuya neighbourhood is where Emperor Meiji and his wife, Empress Shoken, had been known to visit, when they were alive. Today, the woodland and the shrine in its center, are dedicated to the deified royal couple. It is a very popular place to visit for Japanese and tourists alike.

Having never been to a Shinto shrine before, Gym did not know the proper way to offer a prayer. He however led his dear wife through a half-correct ritual and got it done. Fortunately, there was no samurai there to take his head off for purifying his hands incorrectly and failing to bow and clap in the paper way (since that first Shinto visit, our adventurers have learned the proper etiquette). 

Shinto is a religion endemic to Japan and about 70% of the Japanese practice it. Interestingly, the same people will also practice Buddhism and for instance, they might get married in a Shinto shrine, while planning for a funeral in a Buddhist temple. Furthermore, many Japanese will build on this tradition of practising two religions, by having both a Shinto alter and a Buddhist one in different rooms of their home.

More on shrines and Emperor Meiji later!

The Imperial Palace

On the second day in Japan, our intrepid travellers walked to the Imperial Palace. It is about 3.5 kilometers to the outer moat and they hiked by all the government buildings on the way there. When they passed the Department of Finance, they strolled past a phalanx of federal financial types, all spiffy in identical dark suits. They were scurrying back to their offices from a meeting somewhere. Gym learned later that they had increased the prime lending rate that day, so the frenzied activity may have been related to that rare bit of  financial news.

The Imperial Palace grounds are expansive,  encompassing 280 acres. The private estate of the Emperor and his family cover about 2/3 of the total enclosed area and this estate is closed to the public except for two special days each year. The public area is referred to as the East Gardens and visitors can enter this part for free. Included in the East Gardens are two further lines of concentric defensive works, a museum of imperial collections and some very beautiful gardens. Gym and his dear bride did a counter-clockwise reconnoiter of the entire area and paid 2000 yen to see the Imperial Collections.

As Gym was tuckered out, hailing a taxi seemed like a good idea for the return trip to the Ritz. An elderly taxi driver that spoke not a word of English was engaged and the two travellers had fun communicating with him using their combined ten words of Japanese and some animated hand gestures. Eventually, the cabbie understood where exactly his clients wanted to go. When they were dropped off 20 minutes later, the driver was coming around the taxi to open the passenger door when the wind picked up and ripped two 1,000-yen notes from his hands. The cash started flying down the street. Like an Olympic sprinter, the cabbie took off like a shot and to Gym's great surprise, the driver pursued his hard-earned fare down the sidewalk. Amazingly, driver and all the yen were soon reunited. Gym wanted to tip him for the ride and the amazing feat of athleticism but alas, tips are not accepted anywhere in Japan.

The Shibuya Crossing

On the last day in Tokyo, our travellers strolled out to the Shibuya Crossing. It is the Tokyo equivalent of Times Square in New York City. However, they are very different. No one in Tokyo jaywalks as the Japanese people follow the rules. In addition, there is no trash on the streets of Tokyo, nobody litters. Furthermore, there are very few hucksters wandering around Shibuya dressed like Godzilla or Lady Liberty, as there always is in Times Square. That sort of spectacle just doesn't happen in Japan. Mrs. Gym likes this orderly and clean country.

The Ritz Carlton

Sure, it's a little pricey but our hero thinks it's worth every penny. Reception for the hotel is on the 45th floor and Gym and Mrs. Gym had a very nice room on the 47th floor. They had a gorgeous view to the west.  They woke on three out of four mornings, to see Mount Fuji set above the skyline of the city.  The other day, it was raining and the mountain was obscured. The views from the room and all three restaurants were simply intoxicating. The service provided by the well-trained staff was outstanding. The bonus is that the hotel is built over the Mid-Town Mall where there is a huge food court and several independent restaurants. If you wanted to get take-out or simply eat outside of the hotel, you didn't have to go outside. And of course, there are so many things to see that are an easy walk from the hotel.

Stay tuned!

Pictures added April 6, 2024

Imperial Palace

Spring 2024 - In Search of Cherry Blossoms : Tokyo

On a clear Monday morning, looking west from the 47th floor of the Rita Carlton, one can see the snow-capped peak of Mount Fuji, 100 kilometres away.

Our hero and his lovely companion, were off on another adventure. They left Canada on March 15, 2024 and flew to Tokyo, with a short stopover in Vancouver. Since the pandemic ended, Air Canada still hasn't resurrected all the direct flights from Calgary, to Asia and Europe. Gym believes that he must fly through places like Vancouver and Toronto, so that he can keep all the other airports in Canada viable. This way the Liberal/NDP federal coalition can get their MP's home from Ottawa, without flying through the USA. 

Our adventurers arrived at Narita Airport at 4 PM on March 16, 2024. Crossing the International Dateline had basically wiped out 24 hours of Gym's life. He was glad though, that he lost March 16th and not March 17th. As a proud descendent of Irish immigrants to Canada, it would have been sad indeed to have lost St. Paddy's Day in such a way. 

In typical Japanese style, getting through Narita Airport was quick and painless. All luggage arrived on the carousels moments after the travellers arrived there from Japanese Customs. They were soon out the exit with a driver they had pre-booked for the 2-hour transfer to Akasaka (Mid-Town). They were staying at the Ritz Carton Hotel which Gym believed was ideally situated amidst all of the must-see attractions in this massive city. Over the next few days and in typical fashion, Gym and Mrs. Gym would walk to the Meiji Shrine, the Imperial Palace and the Shibuya Crossing. Following the short stay in Tokyo, they would board the MS Riviera in Yokohama Harbour on March 20, 2024. The Riviera was slated for a 12-day cruise to seven port cities throughout Japan in search of some good cherry blossom pics. 

Stay tuned!

The Ritz Carlton jutting out of the
multi- level Mid-Town Mall 

November, 2023: In To Africa - Zanzibar

Gym’s beachfront bungalow at the Baraza Resort and Spa

On November 30, 2023 and for the second time, Gym and his lovely sidekick would depart from Nairobi and cross the border into Tanzania. This time, they were headed to the island of Zanzibar. Although the safari was over, Micato had provided for the smooth transfer of the two intrepid travellers and their luggage, from the Four Points hotel to the airport. And Micato's service didn't end there. Even though this add-on trip to the beach was not part of the package, Micato provided transportation while in Zanzibar and later lined up a tour of Stone Town, the historic capital of the island. Gym and Mrs, Gym were spoiled by Micato's premium service before during and after their Safari.

From Nairobi, our adventurers flew on Kenyan Airlines to Zanzibar, with a brief layover in Mombasa to clear customs. They arrived at the Zanzibar International Airport at about dinner time. There they met Ali, the guide and Adam, the driver. Ali, a Micato employee, was a warm and welcoming Zanzabarian host. He provided his guests with a running commentary on all things Zanzibarian. Adam was an excellent driver and he made good time as we crossed to the east side of the island, It was late when Gym and Mrs. Gym checked in to the Baraza  Resort and Spa.

Zanzibar is uniquely positioned just south of the equator and half way down the eastern side of the African continent.  It is flat and somewhat swampy but it is blessed with beautiful beaches, lush green forests and friendly people. It has been an important waypoint for seafarers for as long as traders began sailing around the perimeter of the Indian Ocean. Stone Town had always been a key port-o-call for traders in precious metals, ivory, spices  and slaves. Gym and his dear wife enjoyed the tour of the Capital that Ali led a few days after they had settled in to the Baraza Resort. Ali provided the historical background for much of what the travellers saw.

The Baraza Resort was an excellent quality luxury resort. The service, food, spa, pool, beach and accommodations were all top notch. It was 'Four Seasons quality' with a more affordable rate. The seaside bungalow was enormous and with the buildings being quite spread out in the beautifully landscaped grounds, it was perfect for a post-safari break before returning to the Canadian winter.

This magical visit to East Africa ended on December 1, 2023, when Gym and his dear companion left Zanzibar and began a 4-leg return journey to Calgary. They travelled back via Nairobi on Kenyan, Dubai on Emirates, Toronto on Emirates and Calgary on Air Canada. 

The Resort

 

Lush gardens from beach bungalows to the
 pool and restaurant area.

Baraza security staff member

Pool area

Interior of bungalow

Evening at Baraza

Market in Stone Town, Zanzibar

The fish guy

The goat meat guy

The spice shop

The fruit guy

The narrow streets and the colourful locals

A market that used to be…

The slave auction site had this church
Built over it when slavery was banned.

A chilling memorial to the slave trade in the
back of the church

The Doors of Stone Town:

Stone Town Fat Cats

Arabic, Swahili an Indian styles are on display
in old Stone Town homes that have been
recently renovated. This door is an Indian door
as it is rounded and has geometrically placed
brass studs.

This is an Arab door

A particularly strong-looking door. 

And finally, the most sought-after door in Stone Town….

 

The door to the building where Freddie Mercury
lived until he was a young adult.

November 2023: In to Africa - Mukuru Slum

Driving into the Mukuru slum in Nairobi, the kids are all smiles
 to see a Micato Land Cruiser. Micato provides hope!

Early in the morning of November 29, 2023, Gym and his lovely sidekick, had to check out of their deluxe accommodation on the banks of the Mara River, They were bound for Nairobi later that morning. They enjoyed a lovely breakfast in the main lodge of the Fairmont and then strode past the reception desk and out the door to find Joseph and Kintai waiting for them by the land cruiser. The safari-goers would enjoy their last game drive on the way to the airstrip, about an hour away through the bush. Sadly, after a week of daily game drives, in all the most beautiful settings in Tanzania and Kenya, it was time to to leave the savannah and return to civilization.

At the airstrip as they waited for the chartered Cessna Caravan, a troop of baboons played nearby and elephants and giraffes browsed in the distance. Soon they were in the air though, flying directly back to the capital. It was important that they get back to Nairobi as early as possible because Micato had one more thing for them to see in Kenya. The itinerary included a tour of Mukuru, the second largest slum in Nairobi. Mukuru is where AmericaShare is dedicated to improving the lives of children in the community. AmericaShare is the social impact arm of Micato Safaris. It has been helping the kids of Mukuru for decades. Part of the cost of every safari is donated to AmericaShare. 

Soon after Gym and his safari group landed in Nairobi, they met their new driver Anthony. They also met a young man named Tobit. Tobit grew up in Mukuru, benefited from the resources that AmericaShare provided him and today is in his second year of university, majoring in Computor Science. He was poised and polite and as the land cruiser made its way to Mukuru, he told the group about life in Mukuru and how AmericaShare had changed his life. At one point he got a little emotional and Gym could tell how sincere his gratitude was for the opportunities that AmericaShare had given him. Tobit was living proof that AmericaShare was making a difference. After touring the AmericaShare project in Mukuru and saying goodbye to Tobit, Gym and Mrs. Gym felt good about the contributions that they had made as part of the Micato safari fee.

After the tour they checked into the Four Points by Marriott and the Micato itinerary was concluded. Bree had a connecting flight back to the United States later that night. Gym and his fetching bride would overnight at the hotel and leave in the morning for a bit of a beach vacation, before returning to Canada. That evening, Kintai, who had been with the intrepid threesome since they began the Micato itinerary, hosted the final dinner in the hotel dining room and everyone said their goodbyes. 

Anthony the Micato driver, smiles as Kintai snaps a photo
of a family of five on a scooter, passing the SUV in Mukuru

Mukuru is lacking in basic infrastucture that we take
for granted in Canada. 

A street in Mukuru after the rain

More kids posing for the visitors in the Micato SUV

The AmericaShare oasis in the middle of Mukuru

Inside an AmericaShare library for the younger kids

A computer lab for the older kids

wall art on the boundary fence of the compound

Huru is another charity in the compound which 
helps young females remain in school during the 
most difficult time in their menstrual cycle. Elton John is
a sponsor with Micato.