Spring 2024 - In Search of Cherry Blossoms: Kobe

Looking down on the port of Kobe from Rokko Mountains.
The MS Riveira is shown tied up at the cruise ship terminal.

Kobe

On March 29, 2024, the MS Riviera tied up at the cruise ship terminal in Kobe, Japan. The previous day had been a 'sea day', so everyone was hungover and the ship's crew needed a break so they could tabulate the liquor profits. They would stay in this port for 36 hours.  There would be plenty of time to get a feel for Kobe and its neighbour Osaka, which was only a 40-minute drive from where the ship was parked.  

Kobe became an important port city at the end of the 19th Century. During the Edo Period when Japan's Tokugawa Shogunate kept Japan isolated from the rest of the world, only Nagasaki could trade with the West. When the Edo Period ended and Emperor Meiji took over in 1869, he recognized that Japan needed to modernize and industrialize. And during his 50-year reign, Meiji transformed the country. Kobe became a very important transshipment hub during the Meiji Period and many foreigners and foreign enterprises set up shop in Kobe. Today, Procter and Gamble, Nestle, IBM and Hewlett Packard all have large offices in Kobe. In addition there are about 40,000 expats living in Kobe today.

Kobe is a lot like Vancouver, it is located next to other municipalities, along a narrow strip of land between the sea and the mountains. In the case of Kobe, the mountains are the Rokko Range which reaches a height of 900 meters above sea level. 

Gym, his dear companion and a few other adventurers,  elected to take a tour that started with a ride on the Rokko Cable Car. This antique rail system is a fun way to get to the top of the mountains. The Rokko rail line, a true funicular, opened in 1932. When you embark at the bottom, an identical but different coloured car is starting its descent from the top. As you climb up the slope, you are seated facing backwards and pass the other car half-way up the mountain. 

Once the railcar reaches the top, you have arrived in Rokko National Park. Gym et al left the rail station and found themselves on a platform that provided some fantastic views of Kobe and the Inland Sea. The air was clear and fresh at that elevation. At that point, the tour was given 30 minutes of free time to explore the touristy area built around the train station and then everyone jumped on a bus to go back into the city. On the way down, they passed the second homes of many well-to-do Japanese and more than one swanky boutique hotel. It reminded Gym of Canmore, Alberta.

Next on the agenda that day, was a sake tasting. Hakatsuru Brewing Company, a Kobe sake brewer, provided the venue. Located in an industrial area close to the sea, Hakatsuru runs a small museum and a sake tasting room. Gym et al went through the museum which contains several dioramas depicting the old way of making sake,  then they got to taste three sake samples. Two tasted like sake should but the third shot was sake infused with lemon. It was delicious! Gym and several others bought a bottle or two.

That night was spent tied up in Kobe. Then the next morning, Gym and Mrs. G, joined  a group headed to Osaka Castle. This castle plays prominently in the book Shogun, as the home of Toranaga's arch enemy, Ishido.  In reality, the Toyotomi clan built the castle and lost it to the real Shogun, Tokugawa, in 1615. Gym and his dear wife climbed hundreds of stairs to the top of the keep because that is what they do. Others in their group, elected to take the elevator.

As the Riviera left Kobe that night, an excellent Japanese drum band bid the ship adieu. They steamed out into the Pacific towards Mount Fuji, on the last leg of the cruise.

Note: Expo 2025 is in Osaka. Book hotels now.

The Rokko Cable Car

You are seated facing backwards as the
car climbs up the mountain.

One of the sake making dioramas in Hakatsuru's museum

Hakatsuru Brewing Company - Hakatsuru
means white crane.

Delicious lemon infused sake

Approach to Osaka Castle passes the wide moat

The Octopus Stone is part of the castle battlements,
it is 5.5x11.7 meters and weighs 120 tons

Inside the castle walls, looking at the keep
across a stunning Japanese Garden

Mrs. G conquers to summit of the Osaka
Castle keep

Shachi adorn the top of the roof of
a Japanese castle. They are made of gold
and were placed to protect the keep from
fire. They were also a display of the wealth
of the lord of the castle.

   

Kobe

Looking down on port of Kobe from Rokko Mountain. MS Riveira
is shown tied up at the cruise ship terminal.

On March 29, 2024, the MS Riviera tied up at the cruse ship terminal in Kobe, Japan. The previous day had been a 'sea day', so everyone was hungover and the ship's crew needed a break so they could tabulate the liquor profits. They would stay in this port for 36 hours, so there would be plenty of time to get a feel for Kobe and its neighbour Osaka, which was only a 40-minute drive from where the ship was parked.  

Kobe became an important port city at the end of the 19th Century. During the Edo Period when Japan's Tokugawa Shogunate kept Japan isolated from the rest of the world, only Nagasaki could trade with the West. When the Edo Period ended and Emperor Meiji took over in 1869, he recognized that Japan needed to modernize and industrialize. And during his 50-year reign, Meiji transformed the country. Kobe became a very important transshipment hub during the Meiji Period and many foreigners and foreign enterprises set up shop in Kobe. Today, Procter and Gamble, Nestle, IBM and Hewlett Packard all have large offices in Kobe. In addition there are about 40,000 expats living in Kobe today.

Kobe is a lot like Vancouver, it is located next to other municipalities, along a narrow strip of land between the sea and the mountains. In the case of Kobe, the mountains are the Rokko Range which reach a height of 900 meters above sea level. Gym and Mrs. Gym elected to ride the Rock Cable Car up to the top to view Kobe from above and see what it was like up there in what is Rokko National Park. The 

 

Spring 2024 - In Search of Cherry Blossoms: Beppu

 Beppu

Staying completely within the calm waters of Japan's Inland Sea, the Riviera sailed south, to visit Kyushu

Island, one last time. The ship tied up to the dock in Beppu, a city of about 100,000 people, on the north shore of the island. Most people here work in some aspect of the tourism industry. Many tourists are drawn here because of the hot springs. There are at least 8 hot springs in Beppu and each one has a public bath and a ryokan. A ryokan is a traditional-style inn. When you drive through town you can see the steam rising from each of these hot springs.

Gym and his lovely sidekick did not come here for a bath. No, they joined a group to go inland to a place called Usuki, about an hour's drive away. It turned out to be a lovely place, with some very worthwhile sights and the surprise first viewing of the much anticipated cherry tree, in full blossom.

Sakura

The first stop was at a quaint roadside cafe beside some picturesque Japanese farmland. But there was more to it than just a cafe, for a few yen you could gain access to a pathway that started at a mountain stream and then climbed up a steep hill via several sets of evenly-spaced stairs. The grounds were meticulously swept and this hillside was a typically well-maintained Japanese outdoor space. At about 10-20 meters above the stream there was the first of several structures built against the rock faces of steep cliffsides. Here the path levelled out and you entered a building. Then, you could see the large grouping of buddhas carved into the rock face. This was the first of four structures on cliff faces that formed a semicircular grotto, with the pathway connecting each building. Each set of buddhas was stunning and in the middle of the grotto stood a singular, massive cherry tree, in full bloom. From several viewpoints you could also shift your gaze to the lovely little stream and the idyllic farmland beyond the stream, in the valley bottom. Visiting the Usuki Rock Buddhas, is highly recommended by Gym.

Next, Gym et al drove into the town of Usuki. Here everyone visited the interior of a Samurai's home, set up in the traditional manner. Of course shoes must be removed before stepping upon the first tatami mat. The rooms were starkly underfurnished to the westerner's eye and the paper walls meant those Samuri children needed to keep the volume down on their stereo systems. Those tatami mat floors are really nice to walk on and Gym learned that they are replaced every few years or so, to keep the floorspace fresh and tidy looking.

Down the street from the samurai's house was the high ground upon which Usuki Castle once stood. The keep is long gone now but there were a few battlements left and the big front gate was still there. Gym and his fetching bride decided to climb up and go through the gate to see what was up there on that plateau. They also knew that they needed to augment their step counts to reach the daily minimum. Once on top, they hiked around a large open area and past some street food stalls that were set up there. Gym was very tempted but remembered, that he was living on a cruise ship, so he walked on by..

That night the ship set out into the Pacific. The next day everyone enjoyed a sea day, as the Captain made his way north around Shikoku.

Cherry Blossom Report:

Finally, it was official, the sakura had arrived! (sakura=cherry blossoms and they are the national flower of Japan)

Usuki Stone Buddhas

A map of the pathway and location of the 
structures protecting the stone buddhas

The mountain stream

The pathway to the buddhas

See the inside of the structures built around each 
set of carvings

See how well the protective structure is built
around the carvings to protect them from the elements

Bamboo 

Idyllic Japanese farmland

Samurai House

Take your shoes off at the front door of the Samurai House

Samurai Backyard

Usuki Castle Ruins

Approaching the plateau where Usuki Castle 
used to overlook the town

The castle moat is a great place for turtles

At the top of the plateau is the imposing main gate

A nice city park now sits where the keep used to be.

Spring 2024 - In Search of Cherry Blossoms: Hiroshima

The A-Bomb Dome

 

Hiroshima

Japan's Inland Sea lies in between three of the four main islands of Japan. On March 26, 2024, after leaving Korea and crossing the choppy waters of the Sea of Japan, the cruise ship entered the calm Inland Sea. Mrs. G slept more soundly as the ship's motion smoothed out and the Riviera glided up towards Hiroshima. As dawn broke, the ship approached the port and passed numerous orderly oyster rafts in neat rows between the smaller islands. These small islands, covered with coniferous forests, reminded Gym of the Gulf Islands of British Columbia. 

Hiroshima is today, a much bigger city than Nagasaki. After being almost completely destroyed on August 6, 1945, it has been rebuilt and become home to over 1.2 million inhabitants. It boasts the head office for both Mazda and Mrs. G's favourite company, Ryobi. It also has important branch offices for many other heavy industry companies, banks and textile manufacturers. There are some large niche industries there too, including woodworking and writing brush manufacturing. Maybe being linked to Tokyo by rail gave it a leg up. 

The tour Gym had chosen, began at the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, smack dab in the centre of the city. The tour group was let off near the ruined hulk of the only building that wasn't flattened by the nuclear explosion, the A-Bomb Dome. Most other buildings in the surrounding 13 square kilometers were tightly packed and made of wood and either they disintegrated immediately or burned shortly after the explosion. The stone and steel A-Bomb Dome stood only 150 meters from being directly under the blast and was not flattened. However,  everyone inside it, died instantly. After the war the city decided to leave the ruins as a reminder of the devastation.

Because the city sits on a flat river delta, the loss of life here was much greater than in Nagasaki. As many as 180,000 people died here on or shortly after August 6, 1945. Nagasaki is not as flat and the steeper walls of valleys it sits on kept the fatalities from being on the same scale as those experienced in Hiroshima.

Gym et all proceeded on foot past the A-Bomb Dome and across the Motoyasu Bridge to the Fountain of Peace and the Children's Peace Monument. Then they viewed the Pond of Peace and Memorial Cenotaph. Finally, they visited the museum but there were so many people there that day, they couldn't spend the time needed to see all the exhibits. 

The group then got back on the bus and drove about 30 minutes south on the highway to the ferry that crosses to Itsukushima Island. They had come to visit the famed Itsukushima Shinto Shrine. The Shrine was built just offshore of the island, on pilings below the intertidal zone. The ferry ride took about 15 minutes and it landed at a terminal near a number of shops, restaurants  and hotels. The island was full of tourists that day and many of them may have been more interested in the shops. Gym et al needed to get through all the tourist traps to check out this famous Shinto holy place. Eventually, Gym and his dear companion made it to the shrine and expertly offered prayers to the shrine's kamis. On the way back to the ferry terminal, Gym succumbed to the siren song of the tourist traps and found some must-have trinkets. The yen were burning a hole in his pocket.

That night the Riviera would steam south to make one final visit to Kyushu Island.

Cherry Blossom Report:

There was nothing to write home about in Hiroshima

Looking back from the Motoyasu Bridge,
you see the A-Bomb Dome on the right and 
you also see the bridge that was the target 
of the bomber crew that dropped the A-Bomb.

This is the Children's Peace Monument
and it depicts a child holding up an origami
crane. One little girl was told if she made
1000 cranes she would get one wish. 
Although she was dying of leukaemia,
she wished for a world with no nuclear
weapons. The statue is dedicated to her..

After the little girl died, her classmates
and many other young Japanese girls made
1000 cranes each and they are displayed in cases.

The Epitaph

Looking south down the park, with the museum in 
the background.

The fountain in the front of the museum

On the ferry ride over to  Itsukushima
Island you see the massive Shinto Gate to
the shrine. 

The island is covered with protected deer 
about the size of a Great Dane. Thet are
very tame and you have to watch they don't 
eat your ferry ticket.

As always, there are saki barrels for the Kamis of
the shrine

Here you can see the whole shrine is built on
pilings and that it is low tide. At high tide, the
whole thing is surrounded by water.

The Shinto Shrine in the foreground and a
Buddhist Pagoda on a hill in the background

Another pic of the pilings. By the way, nothing here
 was damaged by the a-bomb that exploded
30 kilometres away.

Spring 2024 - In Search of Cherry Blossoms; Busan, Korea

Sam the excellent Korean ambassador, has the ear of 
his followers at Haedong Yunggong Temple

 

Intermission in Korea

Gym's experience is that the Japanese personality is always polite, very calm, somewhat reserved and always well organized. The Korean personality on the other hand, is more extroverted, quite passionate, very expressive and like the  Japanese, also very well organized. Gym would rather go to the pub with a Korean.

On March 25, 2024, Gym and his lovely sidekick, followed a Korean guide named Sam, around Busan for a day. They were delighted with his charisma, energy and charm.  In spite of it being a blustery day, Sam made their experience in Korea, one of the highlights of the cruise.

The MS Riviera had steamed over the Sea of Japan from Nagasaki overnight. Busan is just 120 miles from the Japanese coast. It is the second largest city in Korea and would rank as third largest city in Japan. It is one of the busiest ports in the world, busier than any port in Japan. It boasts a population of 3.5 million people and they enjoy a high GDP per capita like that of any city in Japan. Tall luxury condos line the beaches of the chi chi Haeundae District. Despite a high population density, there are many nice parks where the condo dwellers can enjoy the outdoors.

The day started with a visit to the Haedong Yunggong Temple. It's an important complex of Buddhist temples located along one of Busan's rockier sea shores. Gym took it all in and thought that it was a little bit gaudy and more like a permanent country fair than a place of worship but whatever works for you, if you're searching for Nirvana. Gym likes the pagoda's but finds giant, golden laughing buddhas kind of odd. Talk about colourful though, reds and golds dominate but anything goes. And, if you want to try roasted silk worms, there is a booth on the way to the parking lot (Gym found them to be nutty and meaty and not at all unpleasant).

Next stop was at Dongbaek Park, where the 2005 APEC Summit was held. The conference venue building sits on the edge of a cliff with an incredible view overlooking the rich neighbourhood of Gangnam, the Haeundae Beach, the incredible Gwangan Bridge and the Sea of Japan. In the main conference room, there is a circular arrangement of chairs for the ministers that attended in 2005 summit, with bronze plaques still affixed, denoting each Pacific nation that participated. Gym couldn't find evidence that Prime Minister Paul Martin attended but some big shot Liberal was undoubtedly there. After leaving that venue, Sam took everyone to a buffet lunch not far from the park, where Gym et al enjoyed a broad arrangement of East-Asian fare.

That afternoon, there was a thorough exploration of the colourful and hectic Millak Live Fish Sashimi Market. Never has Gym seen such a fish market anywhere in the world. Sam finished by trying unsuccessfully to lose some of his group with a whirlwind dash around the narrow streets of the Suyeung District where it seems you can get a bargain on just about everything you need.

That evening the ship would sail back to Japan to make a stop at Hiroshima.

Note: The author has better internet as of the day this is being published so he will provide pics for previous posts in the days ahead.

The Laughing Buddha at the temple complex

Inside the main temple

Statues for Mrs. G's birth year - The Rat

The pagoda

Beautiful Standing Buddha 

2005 APEC Summit Venue

View of Haeundae Area from park

Sea of Japan

APEC countries

APEC Round Table

APEC Venue from park

Live Fish for sashimi

Formerly Live Fish

Nice assortment of seafood

Suyeung District

While you are out shopping in Suyeung, drop your cat off 
at the Premium Cat Theme Park

Stay tuned!