Papeete, Tahiti - May 28-29, 2018

The Adventurers didn't pay any attention to the disembarkation instructions when they left the ship. They basically just got up, ate breakfast and walked off the ship. Again, Gym counted his blessings for marrying a packing guru, as the bulk of their belongings had been neatly tucked away in the bigger luggage that previous night and left in the hall for the porters. On that last morning of the cruise, your hero simply took his share of the carry-on and followed his leader off the Insignia. They shook hands with Hansen, the Assistant Cruise Director as they strode off the gangway, ferreted their big suitcases out from the pier-side tent and hailed a cab. It was a short ride from the pier to the Intercontinental Hotel.

Gym and Mrs. Gym had stayed at the Intercontinental the last time they were in Tahiti but things were different then. That was back in 2013. Gym distinctly remembers writing up a less than exemplary critique on Tripadvisor, after that first stay.The hotel had needed some tender loving care. The interiors were dated and the seaside landscaping, although nice, needed some restoration.  Lo and behold, when they checked in this year, they were pleasantly surprised. The rooms were freshly renovated with hardwood floors, beautiful new bathroom fittings and new beds. The landscaping and the area around the idyllic lagoon had been refreshed and renewed. Tripadvisor works! An updated recommendation would be required.

Although work was piling up in Calgary, Gym had booked two nights at the Intercontinental to shake out the sea-legs and rest for the long flight home. The days were sunny and warm and the resort offered a perfect setting to relax a bit. In that pleasant tropical climate, Gym and Mrs. Gym sat on the beach and stared across at Moorea in the distance. Gym recommends this resort for a short stay before or after visiting Bora Bora or one of the other nearby islands of French Polynesia.

A great extent of the south seas was traversed on this trip. The intrepid couple had seen some new places and some old places, but together with the trip in 2013, they had now connected the dots on two cruises that stretched across the Pacific Ocean and between the two great continents of Australia and South America. Siri will tell you that as the crow flies, that distance is 12,816 kilometres but the ships do a lot of jigging and jagging, so it isn't really known how far they sailed. One thing is certain though, the goal of cruising around the world in manageable chunks, was slowly being realized. That circumnavigation is one of the major subplots of this blog and the intrepid couple plan to continue to connect the dots with a long cruise in March of 2019.

Cheers for now!

Pineapple Garden at Intercontinental

Main Pool

The view across the lagoon

Amazing sunsets from the lounge beside the lobby

its worth seeing twice

another poolside area on the resort

The lagoon

It was a nice flight back to our home continent on  Air Tahiti Nui.

Back in Bora Bora - May 26-27, 2018

You have to arrive there on a ship. There is no other way to experience the unique beauty of it. It is truly the most outstanding vista on this earth. And when you have been there before and you first recognize the profile of the island on your approach, you thank god that he gave you one more chance to see Bora Bora. Ya-ya, that sounds cheesy but it's true, even James Michener the famous author said that, "it is so stunning that there are really no adequate words to describe it."

Famous folks other than Gym and James Michener also liked Bora Bora. It started in 1962, when the film, Mutiny on the Bounty was filmed in Tahiti. Tarita Teripaia, a young French Polynesian actress played the role of Marlon Brando's love interest in that movie. Brando subsequently made her his 3rd wife in 1962. The new Mrs. Brando introduced Marlon to Bora Bora which is where she was born. Brando would later build the first overwater bungalows on the main island near the in-laws' place. Jack Nicholson would spend a considerable amount of his free time here with his friend and fellow actor. Many celebrities would follow and all you have to do is visit the famous Bloody Mary's restaurant and bar and look at the long list of famous patrons including singers, actors, athletes, musicians, astronauts, politicians, etc.  Gym and his lovely sidekick would dine at the establishment and add their names to the list.

The intrepid couple also toured the main island on this trip. The 12-mile crushed-coral road that encircles the island is the same one that was laid down by the U.S. military during WWII. The U.S. military also built the airstrip on Motu Mute that today is the airport that brings in most visitors to the island. The tour would pass several installations left by the U.S. military during the war including bunkers, gun emplacements and other structures, none of them are manned today. At several points you could look across the lagoon to the new resorts that are built on the inside shore of the motus (fringing islands), such as Motu Pit A'au where the Four Seasons runs a 5-star resort. Whether you tour by truck as we did, car, moped or bike the entire 12-mile journey on the main road is a drive through a tropical garden, surrounded by hibiscus, frangipani and hibiscus.

If you are looking for great shopping, lively night life or informative museums this ain't it. Perhaps its a scuba diving and snorkelling destination but there are so many of those places in the world and only one Bora Bora. The next time Gym and Mrs. Gym go there, the plan will be to get one of those over-water bungalows, on an outlying motu, climb into a lounger and stare across the lagoon to the main island where the strip of white sandy beach separates the aquamarine lagoon from the lush greenery on the steep slopes across from you. Then your gaze will move up, seemingly straight up the side of the angular volcanic remnants that are the rounded peak of Pahia and its neighbouring mountain, the jagged and dark-faced, Otemanu. That view is entrancing and don't just take Gym's word for it, all the celebrities would agree.

The last time the intrepid couple were in Bora Bora, exactly 5 years before, they swam with black-tipped sharks and stingrays. They touched the stingrays and watched the sleeker sharks swim in circles about 15 feet away. Both species were there for the free meal of seafood chunks being tossed out by the tour operators. Sure, it was thrilling but you can do this anywhere too. You don't need this thrill in Bora Bora, it is a distraction. You need some sunscreen, a camera and a good book. This is a place to unwind, get some vitamin D and take in the unmatched scenery.

The Insignia spent 36 hours in the deep water harbour in front of Viatape, the main town. Then at 1700 hrs on the 27th, the intrepid couple said goodbye to Bora Bora for the second time. Eight hours later they were docked in Papeete, Tahiti and it was time to part ways with Oceania again.

Stay tuned for the thrilling conclusion to the 2018 South Seas Adventure in the final posting.

Cruising toward Bora Bora is magical

The ship passes through the only deep water opening in the
fringing reef and glides into the harbour in front of
Viatape, the biggest town on the main island, where it anchors.

Another shot of the fringing reef as we pass through the opening.
You can see the deep blue of the deep water and the aquamarine
of the shallow water beyond the reef. The Motus are islands
that develop on the fringing reefs like the one on the left.

This Princess ship was the only other cruise ship we saw on the whole trip.
We shared Bora Bora with those boorish louts for half a day.

Pahia on the right and Otemanu on the left

A tie-dye demonstration using some of our friends as models

Bloody Marys has been a going concern on Bora Bora since 1979

There are 230 a-list names on these wooden guest lists.

Inside Bloody Marys you sit on coconut tree stumps on the sand floor
of a Bora Bora-style thatched hut where there serve fresh seafood
and other grilled meats.
 

Looking across the lagoon from the main island to the
 Four Seasons resort

These are tupas (land crabs) that live in holes n the sand.
Throw some flowers down and they will come out to grab them and
take them home to eat them.

This is one of the original Marlon Brando "overwater bungalows"

biggest conc I ever saw

A picture looking down Marara beach on the main island

The big guy has an excellent voice

leaving Bora Bora....again!

Ambling into American Samoa - May 23, 2018

After leaving Tonga on May 22, 2018, the Insignia spent 38 hours at sea and arrived at Pago Pago in American Samoa, on May 23, 2018. If you are doing the math you will have realized that the ship crossed the International Date Line and Gym and his lovely sidekick were able to re-live a full day. Now, instead of being 19 hours ahead of Calgary they were all of a sudden 5 hours behind Calgary. That all makes sense, right? Suffice it to say, they vowed to make the second May 23rd better than the first one.

Gym's first thoughts about American Samoa were related to a Head and Shoulders shampoo commercial of a few years ago. In that commercial Troy Polamalu shows how he keeps his long American Samoan hair clean and dandruff free. Gym didn't meet any Polamalus on the island but he and his wonderful travelling companion did meet some real American Samoan characters.

Gym and Mrs. Gym went on a short tour that started with a stop for a traditional Samoan welcoming ceremony. This involves drinking Kava. Pacific Islanders use Kava to loosen up before these important social gatherings, instead of alcohol. Kava is the crushed up root and stem of some tropical plant and it tastes a  bit like loam but Pacific Islanders have revered it for centuries and the preparation and drinking of the Kava, at the welcoming ceremony, is a critical element thereof. Other elements involve the chief's unwed daughter helping mix the Kava, toasts to the visiting chief and the local chief, some dancing and a lot of oratory from the local chief. After that, Gym and Mrs. Gym were welcome.

The tour carried on and the adventurers visited the Tsunami Memorial in Leone, called the Leone Healing Garden. There they met Chief Tony and his wheelbarrow. Chief Tony was out picking up trash around the memorial site. On September 29, 2009, Leone and the whole southern coasts of American Samoa and Samoa were inundated by a 14-meter tsunami created by an 8.1 magnitude earthquake. That earthquake was the strongest measured in 2009. The tsunami resulted in a significant loss of life, 189 people in total were killed, and many were children. Now, all along the highway are blue signs that remind everyone that if they feel an earthquake, they are to immediately head to higher ground.

The 'ILI'ILI Golf and Country Club was the next stop. Yes, this is a small island and you'd think that a golf course would be out of the question but there it was, a full 18 holes of USGA-rated fairways and greens. And that golf course looked pretty nice. The most amazing thing about it though was the price, green fees are $5 US per round and $20 US for a golf cart. Gym has been paying too much in Calgary.

The last stop was at the village of Fatumafuti. This lucky village looks out on two offshore islets called Fatu and Futi. Samoan legend has it that these volcanic remnants were once two lovers from Samoa who were forbidden to marry in their native land, so they paddled their canoe to Tutuila and it sank just short of the goal. Apparently, some witch doctor's spell turned them to stone because they did not arrive safely in Tutuila. In any event, they are very picturesque.

The Insignia would pull out of Pago Pago that evening and Gym and Mrs. Gym would begin the last leg of their 2018 adventure. They had had nice weather since Tonga and were told to expect more of the same over the next 60 hours or so, before anchoring in Bora Bora on May 26th.

A clue on the tug that we have arrived in American Samoa

Pago Pago

Our beautiful guide Amelia

Our chief (white Insignia guy) and their chief (Samoan guy) drink Kava

The chief's daughter helps prepare the Kava

These signs are all along the highway and say,
"If you feel an earthquake move to higher ground".

Leone Healing Garden

Chief Tony was quite a character

A ship stranded on the reef by the Tsunami

'ILI'ILI Golf and Country Club

Fatu and Futi

A Carl's Junior in American Samoa

American Samoan Customs agent

As the sun sets over Tutuila, the Insignia begins the leg to Bora Bora

Tacking into Tonga - May 22, 2018

Tonga is a cute little island nation of about 110,000 inhabitants. Although the GDP/person is only $5k US/yr or so, the Tongan people have a strong underlying barter economy and this may not be reflected in the GDP. The soil and climate provide for very fertile farming conditions and every family grows ample produce to feed their family and trade a little for things they may not grow. The country's main exports are vanilla, squash, fish, root crops and NFL players. Yes, that's right, if on a per capita basis, Calgary had as many NFL players as Tonga, there would be over 110 local Calgary guys playing in the NFL. The author gets it though, these young Tongan men who are descended from long lines of canoe paddlers have 25-inch forearms and they are natural NFL material.

Tonga is a constitutional monarchy that has never lost its indigenous governance. It was a UK protectorate for a time, from 1900 until it withdrew in 1970 and since then, has been a member of the Commonwealth, without recognizing the British monarchy. The rule of law is British Common Law and there is a unicameral parliament. The current King is Tupou VI and he is head honcho. He has a very nice looking residence not to far from the new cruise ship dock where the Insignia was parked. There is a sign on the dock that indicates the dock was funded by foreign aid from China. So, it seems the kingdom is looking "east" for friends (China is actually northwest of there but you get the drift). I'm sure high ranking Chinese have dined at the King's residence.

Tonga is very, very proud of their rugby team. Did you know Tonga ranks 13th in 2018 WRR rankings and has been as high as 9th only a few year's ago? New Zealand, South Africa and England are usually the top three in the WRR rankings and Canada's best performance is 12th in 2011, the same year Tonga was 9th. But again, for such a small population, these high rankings are incredible.

Two things that stand out about this country are the very high literacy rate and a very high obesity rate. The culture obviously prizes a good education as well as lots of taro root with their beans and rice. Gym and Mrs. Gym noticed the following related items; happy kids in brightly-coloured school uniforms and a Carl's Junior.

Our adventurers checked out the Tongan Blow Holes and then went straight to the Oholei Beach & Hina Cave where we came under the wonderful care of Simana Kami, the owner of the establishment and the Don Ho of Tonga. He didn't sing Tiny Bubbles but he and his back-up band were very good. We were serenaded by Mr. Kami while we had a cocktail and then we enjoyed a Tongan buffet, Tongan- style, using various parts of the banana plant as plates and table clothes. Suckling pig was the star of the meal but there was chicken, fish, octopus, taro, puddings, salads and fruit to go with it. After dinner, we all went into the Hina Cave for a tremendous Tongan traditional dance show, narrated by Mr. Kami. The finale was a couple of fire-eaters and fire-jugglers that came out really well against the dark background of the cave.

After returning to the ship, Gym and Mrs. Gym on some touching Tongan moments:
1. During grace, Simana Kami came to tears when he described how much it meant to him, his family and the neighbourhood that our cruise ship showed up and so many of us came to his establishment; and,
2. As we drove back across the island, the uniformed school-children going home after school, yelled goodbye at our bus as we passed them on streets.

We learned afterward, that Tonga only gets 20 cruise ships per year.

On a sad personal note, Gym has learned that Tongan mosquitoes may carry the Zika virus, so Gym has to wait 18 months before he can get pregnant.

Next stop is American Samoa!

Nuku'Alofa, capital of Tonga

Not the Whitehouse

Blow Hole video

perfect timing

a girls pet piglet at the Blow Holes (foreshadowing something at lunch)

descending down to Hina Cave

Mr. Kami, the Don Ho of Tonga

digging lunch out of the beach

This dude climbed a 60 foot coconut tree in 20 seconds

Togan dancers with their war clubs

Twirling and tossing a fire baton

 

younger school boys yelling goodbye

high school kids at the bus stop