Gym's Ramblings: Back in Bora Bora

You have to arrive there on a ship. There is no other way to experience the unique beauty of it. It is truly the most outstanding vista on this earth. And when you have been there before and you first recognize the profile of the island on your approach, you thank god that he gave you one more chance to see Bora Bora. Ya-ya, that sounds cheesy but it's true, even James Michener the famous author said that, "it is so stunning that there are really no adequate words to describe it."

Famous folks other than Gym and James Michener also liked Bora Bora. It started in 1962, when the film, Mutiny on the Bounty was filmed in Tahiti. Tarita Teripaia, a young French Polynesian actress played the role of Marlon Brando's love interest in that movie. Brando subsequently made her his 3rd wife in 1962. The new Mrs. Brando introduced Marlon to Bora Bora which is where she was born. Brando would later build the first overwater bungalows on the main island near the in-laws' place. Jack Nicholson would spend a considerable amount of his free time here with his friend and fellow actor. Many celebrities would follow and all you have to do is visit the famous Bloody Mary's restaurant and bar and look at the long list of famous patrons including singers, actors, athletes, musicians, astronauts, politicians, etc. Gym and his lovely sidekick would dine at the establishment and add their names to the list.

The intrepid couple also toured the main island on this trip. The 12-mile crushed-coral road that encircles the island is the same one that was laid down by the U.S. military during WWII. The U.S. military also built the airstrip on Motu Mute that today is the airport that brings in most visitors to the island. The tour would pass several installations left by the U.S. military during the war including bunkers, gun emplacements and other structures, none of them are manned today. At several points you could look across the lagoon to the new resorts that are built on the inside shore of the motus (fringing islands), such as Motu Pit A'au where the Four Seasons runs a 5-star resort. Whether you tour by truck as we did, car, moped or bike the entire 12-mile journey on the main road is a drive through a tropical garden, surrounded by hibiscus, frangipani and hibiscus.

If you are looking for great shopping, lively night life or informative museums this ain't it. Perhaps its a scuba diving and snorkelling destination but there are so many of those places in the world and only one Bora Bora. The next time Gym and Mrs. Gym go there, the plan will be to get one of those over-water bungalows, on an outlying motu, climb into a lounger and stare across the lagoon to the main island where the strip of white sandy beach separates the aquamarine lagoon from the lush greenery on the steep slopes across from you. Then your gaze will move up, seemingly straight up the side of the angular volcanic remnants that are the rounded peak of Pahia and its neighbouring mountain, the jagged and dark-faced, Otemanu. That view is entrancing and don't just take Gym's word for it, all the celebrities would agree.

The last time the intrepid couple were in Bora Bora, exactly 5 years before, they swam with black-tipped sharks and stingrays. They touched the stingrays and watched the sleeker sharks swim in circles about 15 feet away. Both species were there for the free meal of seafood chunks being tossed out by the tour operators. Sure, it was thrilling but you can do this anywhere too. You don't need this thrill in Bora Bora, it is a distraction. You need some sunscreen, a camera and a good book. This is a place to unwind, get some vitamin D and take in the unmatched scenery.

The Insignia spent 36 hours in the deep water harbour in front of Viatape, the main town. Then at 1700 hrs on the 27th, the intrepid couple said goodbye to Bora Bora for the second time. Eight hours later they were docked in Papeete, Tahiti and it was time to part ways with Oceania again.

Stay tuned for the thrilling conclusion to the 2018 South Seas Adventure in the final posting.

Cruising toward Bora Bora is magical

The ship passes through the only deep water opening in the
fringing reef and glides into the harbour in front of
Viatape, the biggest town on the main island, where it anchors.

Another shot of the fringing reef as we pass through the opening.
You can see the deep blue of the deep water and the aquamarine
of the shallow water beyond the reef. The Motus are islands
that develop on the fringing reefs like the one on the left.

This Princess ship was the only other cruise ship we saw on the whole trip.
We shared Bora Bora with those boorish louts for half a day.

Pahia on the right and Otemanu on the left

A tie-dye demonstration using some of our friends as models

Bloody Marys has been a going concern on Bora Bora since 1979

There are 230 a-list names on these wooden guest lists.

Inside Bloody Marys you sit on coconut tree stumps on the sand floor
of a Bora Bora-style thatched hut where there serve fresh seafood
and other grilled meats.

Looking across the lagoon from the main island to the
Four Seasons resort

These are tupas (land crabs) that live in holes n the sand.
Throw some flowers down and they will come out to grab them and
take them home to eat them.