Gym's Ramblings: Iberian Incursion 2025: Retiro, Madrid

One of the top draws for visitors to Madrid, is Retiro Park, located in the Retiro District of Madrid. Our hero and his comely bride are currently camped out in one of the many century old historical 'palaces' along Alfonso XII street that line the west side of the park. They arrived safely on Thursday with their son Chris and his girlfriend Shawna to the Hotel Palacio de Retiro, minus one suitcase. This is the third time that one or both pieces of this luggage set have been lost on a trip to Europe. Happily, each time that this has happened, the luggage eventually caught up but it is always disconcerting for the individual that only has only one extra pair of underwear in his carryon to have to worry whether he might need to buy Euro boxers. In any event, the staff of this boutique hotel welcomed the four Calgarians with open arms and warm hearts to this beautiful accommodation and reunited Mr. G with his wayward suitcase one day late.

Hotel Palacio de Retiro is the former home of a Spanish railroad tycoon that was built it in 1908. It was a private residence for a time before it served for a short spell as an office building and then about 30 years ago it was converted to a hotel. David the doorman provided us with this history. He has been a hotel employee since it opened as a hotel. Today there are five floors with 51 suites, the majority of which have ultra high ceilings, large windows and beautifully renovated interiors. The common spaces are adorned with some of the original art installed by the original owner which include stained glass windows looking out to the courtyard, marble stairways lined with ornate wrought-iron railings and tapestries in the common areas. The hotel entrance off Alfonso XII street used to be the carriage hall and it serves well today as the reception area beyond which is the coolest hotel lounge. The lounge has 30 foot ceilings from which hang three massive chandeliers. The four lucky adventurers will happily spend five nights bunking in this shack, while they check out the Spanish capital.

The expedition thoroughly explored Retiro Park on their first full day in Madrid. Even though it is mid-November, there is still plenty of colour in the flower beds and amazingly long after our leaves have fallen in Canada many of the deciduous trees in Madrid are just now beginning to turn. The red and yellow autumn leaves augment the pallete of colours provided by the hardier species of flowers that are still in bloom. The park is divided into numerous sections. Each on separated by hedge-lined pathways, water features or elaborate fences, punctuated by numerous public art works. There is a large lake in the centre of the park where couples can rent blue rowboats. The lake is lined with cafes and restaurants that have tables along the waterfront. At one third the size of Central Park in NYC it is not the biggest city park but still it is almost a 5-kilometre hike around the perimeter and Mr. Gym guarantees that you will travel much farther when you try to cover all the best sections of the park.

The one aspect of the park that fascinated Mr. and Mrs. Gym was the diversity of trees that flourish there. Mrs Gym marvelled at the sculpted cypresses and the beautifully manicured hedges. Outstanding groves of the stately oak trees grow throughout the park but there are also stands of beech, chestnut, elm, cedar, pine and yew trees; as well as a few acacias, eucalyptus, palm and at least one baobab tree that flourishes there. Of additional note, are the dozens of fruit trees including olive, avocado, fig and almond that must be quite stunning when they all blossom in the spring.

Tomorrow, the expedition will head west to visit some markets and take in more of the Retiro district. Stay tuned!

Front Entrance of Hotel Palacio de Retiro,
formerly the horse-drawn carriage hall.

Hotel view from the north side.

View of the hotel from Retiro Park with
the front entrance (former carriage garage)
on the lower left.

The hotel cocktail cocktail and tapas lounge.

The interior courtyard onto which Chris and
and Shawna's room looks onto.

Retiro Park's monument to King Alfonso XII at

King Alfonso up close

Gym's favourite sculpture of the Fallen Angel
Lucifer, being banished by the Almighty

This ferris wheel originally drew water
that was used for a porcelain factory that
used to sit on this part of the park. It was
destroyed by Wellington in the
Napoleonic Wars and
rebuilt in 2020.